Trip to Zimbabwe and Water Crisis Update

Sept 13, 2008

I just returned my first adventure outside of South Africa, to Zimbabwe to visit a friend and his wife in Harare. But first to Victoria Falls Monday Sept 3, on the mighty Zambezi river, with Zambia (not to be confused with Nambia) on one side and Zimbabwe on the other. Dzimba dza mabwe (House of stones), named for all the ancient stone building ruins is where the name Zimbabwe comes from.

One day,  I went for a full day tour to Chobe National Park in Botswana on the Chobe River, that separates Botswana and Namibia. At the confluence if these two big rivers is where the 4 countries meet. Crossing borders back and forth is a scene. It was awesome with the most African elephants in Africa at Chobe. Saw tons of cool animals and birds. The next morning I had my own private sunrise birding trip on the Zambezi river and saw so many amazing birds and hippos, and was served a lovely breakfast. Then a sunset dinner cruise back on the Zambezi.

It is quite a bizarre scene to be in Zimbabwe after this recent election, everyone I talk to so disappointed, believe it was a rigged election, and that not much will change despite  Mugabe’s removal (my friends refer to him as “Bob”). Although the torture and killing that he did won’t continue at least. What I didn’t know until I got here is that Zimbabwe does not have its own currency and is suffering for it. They are using the US$ which does not actually exist except for what tourists bring. They accept Rands which is what I had in cash, and debit or credit cards as well.  The shortage of petrol is also another serious problem. I don’t know why. I stayed with my friends who live in Harare and work at two different universities.  I learned a lot about their day-to-day lives and some of the history and politics there, including that the Zimbabwe black majority suffered apartheid by the British before South Africa by the Afrikaners (Dutch). My friends took me to one of the largest historic sites there, called The Great Zimbabwe, about 250 miles from Harare.  It is the ruins of an old stone community from the 12^th -16^th centuries I think.  Apparently there are smaller similar ones around the country.  I was struck with the similarities with the native American ruins in the southwest of a similar time period.  We stayed in a cool old cottage not far from the ruins.  We has a lovely time and it was great to see various parts of the country.  The road we travelled in the main road between Zim and South Africa and it was in horrible shape.  Unreal to have so much traffic with cars, buses, large and oversized trucks driving this route constantly.  The legacy of the Mugabe regime is everywhere.  People truly hate him.

Zimbabwe is in a more desperate state than South Africa, overall.  And while I was there the cholera emergency was in full swing in one of the large, poor neighbourhoods in Harare and now spreading to the countryside, of course due to lack of adequate basic sanitation.  At least 24 have died and thousands are ill.  It is inexcusable in the 21^st century that anywhere suffers from lack of basic sanitation and potable water.   South Africa has big problems with it but Zim has even lacked back chemicals for water treatment for years even where there is a relatively reasonable access to water.  And now, the WHO says the first-line drugs are not working and the alternative azithromycin is not available. Tragic…

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-45546699

I am now in my last month in Cape Town with lots to do to prepare to depart, and it will be bitter sweet for sure.  More on that another time...

While the winter rains have helped increase the water storage for Cape Town and the Western Cape Province region to nearly 70%, we are at the end of the rainy season and levels need to be more like 80-85% to lift restrictions.  And even then, it would be a temporary lift.  The problem will not go away, obviously.   We are all expected to use no more than 50 litres per day, and I attach the poster plastered around Univ of Cape Town with similar huge billboards and signs all over the city.  It may be a good lesson to check your own usage.  You will see in the article below how much more water we use in the US compared to this.

A friend sent me this article recently and it is the best I have seen in terms of the analysis, not just for Cape Town and South Africa in general, but worldwide, and I thought you would find it informative as well.  It is long, but worth it.

https://www.theatlantic.com/science/archive/2018/09/cape-south-south-africa-water-crisis/569317/?utm_source=feed​

I attach a picture of the water conservation poster that is all over the UCT campus and many like it, plus large billboards all over Cape Town and the region, in general.

Photos from the Victoria Falls Area and The Great Zimbabwe: 1) Cliff and Sarlomie at the lodge (Norma Jeanne's) near The Great Zimbabwe in Masvingo, 2) Stone ruins from The Great Zimbabwe, 3) Shona village women at The Great Zimbabwe, 4) Young girl selling LARGE sweet potatoes along the road from Masvingo, 5) & 6) Victoria Falls, 7) Sunrise on the Zambezi River for the birding boat trip (with breakfast served), 8) Downward Giraffe for a drink, 9) Fiesty young fella getting a little close, 10) Sunset dinner on the Zambezi River.

 
       
  

   
 


 

Winter Rains and Youth Day 16 June

Winter has set in with some pretty big rains over the month of June.  No one complains as it is so very welcome after 3 years of drought.  The water crisis will remain, likely indefinitely, and so conservation measures and new ways of capturing water is still ongoing.

I have gradually sent part this update around via email and Facebook and finally decided it is good to post here for a longer term record.  It pains me as I know it does almost everyone else I know, to continuously learn details of the horror show that continues to grow via this administration in the US.  While I follow the headlines daily, I am not truly inundated like I will be when I return.  People here in Cape Town and elsewhere in South Africa are amazed that now the US is no different than other countries familiar to Africa with dictators, despots and authoritarian megalomaniacs.  And people ask me how a country that elected Obama could end up like this.  I heard Michael Moore say recently on Stephen Colbert, that the democrats won the popular vote in 6 out of 7 last presidential elections, but for the gerrymandered electoral college, the popular vote didn't matter.  We must get rid of the electoral college; it is so undemocratic.  

It is really gong to be hard for me to leave this place I love, but it is inevitable. The big question is what will come next.  Sort of like being back in the initial retirement mode, only more so since this adventure is so much more than about work. I am in a constant mode of learning and exploring it seems. I love the beauty, the cultures and people, the contrast and conflicts.  

I am doing well and still enjoy my life here.  My work is fun and rewarding at UCT's School of Public and Family Medicine. Outside of work I have some days very full for me on many levels.  In mid-June, that Friday was Eid, the end of the month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast from sun up to sundown.  I started my day early at the mosque of good friends of mine to share the observance of this very holy day.  It began with amazing meditative Muslim chanting and the moving message of the Iman. The Mosque or Masjid, is a very progressive one and the Iman spoke of social justice, compassion and resistance to oppression in all its form (I learned later he was one of the high school students arrested in 1976 described below about the film).  I joined my friends for their big lunch with family now that fasting is over. I love to listen to the call for prayer several times a day from the close-by local mosque and love that sound wafting through the neighbourhood to my place. Then later my day ended with a concert by Oliver Mtukudzi from Zimbabwe, where the audience (seemed mostly from Zimbabwe) were truly energised and excited.  So, all that happened in just one day.  Saturday was Youth Day, and I was able to join people to watch the documentary described below, many of those involved as high school students were present for the screenings throughout the day.  The third, evening screening, was going to take place at the Palestinian museum to draw attention to the suffering of Palestinian people under Israeli apartheid.  I have heard many here comment that what they suffer there is far worse than apartheid in SA; even Mandela commented about that at some point.   

I was lucky to visit Kruger National Park a few weeks ago and saw many great animals and birds. I attached a couple here.  I am hoping to travel to Zimbabwe and maybe Namibia in the first two weeks of Sept. Also, recently, for Refugee Food Week I attended a cooking class with young cooks/chefs from Congo and Angola.  They didn’t really do a home-style thing and cooked fancier food than I would ever make or likely eat, but then, they now cook in more fancy style restaurants here.  The ingredients and tastes were certainly from their home countries and very yummy!  A photo shows me with those two guest chefs, and the resident chef at this establishment, plus another participant.

Now for the history lesson:

June 16 is commemorated as "Youth Day" in South Africa, a national holiday.  It stems from the murder of hundreds of school children in 1976 in Soweto who protested the requirement that all black schools must be taught in AfriKanns.  What started out as a peaceful protest by unarmed primary and high school children, turned violent by the police actions with tear gas and the use of assault weapons.  The "Afrikaans Medium Act" was implemented in 1975. As a result of what happened in Soweto, many school children around the country began to organise marches and demonstrations, often with severe consequences.  The documentary about Salt River High School students was made by the brother of the Iman mentioned earlier, who was one of the students arrested.  In September 1976 the students organised a protest about the Afrikaans language decree that eventually became a referendum on the apartheid system.  It is an interesting part of their story that Afrikaans was and is a dominant language for them, the so-called "coloured" population, but they saw the connection of this decree for black school children as linked to the overall oppression which they also suffered as well as non-whites.  They are the first to explain that Afrikaans is not itself a racist language, but how it was used was integral to the racist apartheid oppression.

The high school is in the next door community of Salt River a few blocks from where I live in Observatory and near the University of Cape Town's Faculty of Health Sciences, where I work.  These students led the first-ever march into downtown Cape Town by any group against apartheid.  The march that started with their own school peers, soon swelled to 10,000 en route to parliament.  Ten high school students were arrested, beaten and tortured, along with two parents and a teacher.  They were eventually released after a trial, with no verdict related to the trumped-up charges against them. Prior to the tragic events of 1976, the anti-apartheid activities were largely underground or taking place outside of South Africa.  It the bravery of these children and youth that galvanised the next major waves of resistance and opposition and eventually led to the end of apartheid in the early 1990s.

Youth Day should be an international observance.  Youth are being murdered in the US by guns and now youth have taken up the banner of resistance like those in previous generations.  Youth were integrally involved in the resistance during the Civil Rights and Vietnam protests; and now more recently in Black Lives Matter protests; protests agains guns and gun violence; youth led-protests against the apartheid conditions for Palestinians by the Israeli government, to name a few.  And the US continues to mistreat hundreds of children separated from their parents and warehoused in cage-like prison conditions.  It is a tragedy on so many levels.  The Trump administration stands against all of our most important values and is out of control.  One of my favourite anti-apartheid songs is Senzeni Na (What have we done?), sung by the Cape Town Youth Choir at this link.  It is almost a prayer and has become like "We Shall Overcome" here.

Senzeni Na:

https://youtu.be/5fDU1PYWT8A

*******************************************

  

 

Water, Water Everywhere - Not

 Save Water While We Have It!

And Don't Panic!

As the water crisis is in full-swing in Cape Town, I thought it useful to give an update on what I know.  The Western Cape, particularly the part where Cape Town is located, has been in a drought for the past 3 years.  In addition, Cape Town is now a city of 4 million, a double in its population since 1996; plus, it is estimated there are 10 million visitors a year to the area.  The reservoirs that serve the area were not built with either these two critical factors in mind, increased population and decreased rainfall.  The reservoirs are currently around 25-26% of capacity and if the supply drops below 14%, there will not be enough water to run the system nor keep the main business area functioning.  So, if the level drops that low, we will be at Day Zero when the taps are turned off, although the central business district and the informal settlements will be exempt while supply lasts.  If Day Zero actually occurs, we would be required to take our 25-liter jugs to the hundreds of water stations that will be set up – that will be the individual daily ration.  Unfortunately, many do not have transport, so that will be another logistic to contend with. 

So Draconian water restrictions are in place, a limit of 50 liter per day per person, and there are many creative ways many if not most are trying to adhere to – like taking shorter and fewer showers, doing laundry less often, not flushing the toilet each time (and not depositing toilet paper into the toilet particularly just for urine), reducing how much water is used for dishwashing, brushing teeth, etc.  Grey water from dishwashing is used for the toilet or to water plants (it is crazy we use potable water for toilets in the first place). I have a little adaptation created by a few colleagues pictured below to attempt to use less water for handwashing or simple rinsing – it is a plastic water bottle to squeeze so that the small drip irrigation tubing delivers less water than a faucet.  There is even a restaurant in town that has started creating more dishes that don’t use water or even cooking.  Speaking of plastic water bottles, the impact of so many being bought and often not recycled is likely staggering.  I have not seen any commentary on this.  I almost never buy water in plastic if I can avoid it by now I am purchasing 5-liter bottles and also boiling an extra kettle of water when I make my morning tea, to have for drinking water.  I have not heard that there is a problem yet, but I have started to wonder – either that the levels are too low to actually dilute what buggers may be hanging around, or that the system will require more chlorine.  This is purely my own opinion and I have not seen any information to corroborate my ideas.

Of course, the disparities between the haves- and the haven-nots appear in these circumstances.  Many in the informal settlements here, and in many communities around the world, where there is no plumbing have been living bucket-to-bucket for years.  Here in the well-to-do suburbs, many have access to bore holes to access ground water or they have swimming pools functioning as storage capacity (theoretically they are not to be filled with city or ground water, but only rain water).  It is hard to tell whether compliance with the restrictions is equitably distributed. 

Some have asked about desalination as an option.  I heard a good lecture recently about water issues and that question came up. According to this person, Kevin Winter, the technology is not up to the task here or in many areas, besides that it is very expensive.  Current technology relies on reverse osmosis which is problematic where the water source has pollution issues and can cause blockages in the system, which is the case in this area.  There are 3 small desalination plants in the area that will be up and running in March but they are too small to make a difference and are considered more on the scale of demonstration projects.  There is a great deal of high tech modeling going on about the water supply and all the many options that could capture more from rainwater (lots of people have large tanks at home), ground water, surface water recapture (rain gardens were discussed) and improved waste treatment.  Also, making sure leakage in the system is addressed and all efforts to maintain accurate measurements of what is happening in a system is essential.

The demand for water is also great in agriculture where approximately 50% of the water goes.  Right now, however, farmers are taking the biggest hit as their supply was shut off recently – with many admitting that farmers are essentially donating water to Cape Town.  This could have implications for food supply if things become more severe.  In a recent discussion I heard, it was acknowledged that farmers here are the most conservative with water use and have a much better understanding of the balances needed in the system. There are certainly public health implications of this water crisis related to hygiene, sanitation and dehydration, etc.  There is a link below with a good summary of these issues to consider.

Although this is not the rainy season, one night recently we had one of the biggest thunder, lighting and rain storms I have seen since I arrived in August.  It moved the Day Zero prediction from mid-May into June which will be the beginning of winter and hopefully a more sustained rainfall -although the past 3 years have not been enough to avoid where we are now.  But the conservation measures in place and the relentless attention to the problems and the crisis has helped move the date of Day Zero as much as the recent rain.

While Cape Town may be the first major city in the world to consider turning off the taps, it is not the first to get close to this point and will not be the last.  Cape Town water supply was at this same level in 2005 but was saved by the rains that time.  San Paolo came close in 2017; Melbourne Australia is on the brink of a similar crisis. In 2017, some parts of Italy had an 80% drop in its normal water supply and 2,500 fountains in Rome were turned off. So the lessons being learned here apply anywhere and this should be seen as a wake-up call, and the role of climate change that is hurling us into these stark realities. 

In addition to the link on the public health issues of the water crisis, I have included two links below – one that shows the dam levels in the area and the other is the Dashboard for the Day Zero date prediction.  

How Cape Town's Water Crisis Could Make People Sick 

The Dam Levels are Critical for Cape Town's water supply and are a key contributor to the 

Day Zero Dashboard

Environmental Defence Fund article: The energy reality behind Cape Town's water crisis.  Burning coal wastes water resources

[And as an aside, since Jacob Zuma is finally out of office, I thought this photo of someone wearing an ANC T-shirt once supporting him was seen wearing the day he resigned last week; a photo of the Wild Coast I will blog about another time]

 

Life in my 'hood - Getting Back to Blog

Happy New Year!

Well, it has been quite since I have written here.  I have had a sort of blogger's block since a break-in to my place around Sept 12.  My laptop and many other things were taken and I have gradually recovered from this.  Old and new friends and perfect strangers were so kind, I felt very supported which helped a lot, of course. I bought a used laptop similar to the one I lost but initially mostly kept it at work. Now, I am gradually bringing it home so I can more easily write emails and ultimately blog again.   The main computer I have for work or personal use is my laptop which I was carrying back and forth every day, walking from home to UCT (Univ of Cape Town), about a mile walk.  it was risky for me to do this in the first place I suppose.  so, I will likely continue to bring it home on weekends for the most part.  Writing for the blog is more relaxing when I do it in the comfort of my home rather than in an office at the university.  I will see how this all works out over time.  Eventually, plain old procrastination got in my way and just feeling a little stymied about where to begin.  I've decided to begin with where I live.

My landlord installed an alarm system a couple of weeks after the break-in which has helped me a lot to feel more comfortable staying where I am.  In addition, I found it is harder to find a furnished place than I anticipated, so I am glad I can stay where I am.  The area where I am located is called Observatory, and is very conveniently located to UCT, grocery stores, coffee shops and restaurants, and friends that it makes it all the more desirable for me.

So, now, I am totally settled and committed to stay in my cottage which is located about 10 feet from the main house where my landlord lives.  Until recently, his two kids, ages 11 and 14 were living there with him, but they recently left to live with their mother in Germany for a year.  He has a 4-year-old son as well who is quite cute and visits his place regularly.  A big draw for me in my current place is his dog, Milo.  She and I have become great friends and are quite attached to each other.  I walk her daily and she often spends a lot of time with me in my place.  Just today she figured out she could jump up on the bed and I would do little to move her.  She reminds me of a seal so I call her a seal-pup.  I started having fantasies that Sean, my landlord, would allow me to make her a US citizen and bring her home with me, but I think that is unlikely.

I have established some steady routines in my little home and neighborhood. I started making what is known as Brown Seed Bread, sort of a staple here, and also rusk, another major staple. I have been complimented recently that I am turning into a South African with these achievements, apparently.  I think it would take quite a bit more.  anyway, it is a major accomplishment given that my stove is just a counter top thing that looks like a toaster oven with two hot plates on top.  there are no temperature settings on it, just 1, 2 and 3!  I bought an oven thermometer to help with this which so far I am mastering for the baking I have done.  there is a wonderful organic seed shop in walking distance from my place so that is my regular go-to store for flours and nuts, etc.  They were in business in 2001 when I was here previously, so it is nice to revisit some familiar places.

My neighborhood is pretty diverse with students and families and various ethnic groups living and or working nearby.  Within a block of where I live is a largely Muslim neighborhood, and Muslims are just a part of every day life everywhere I go throughout most of the city and surrounding areas.  At home I often hear the call to prayer wafting through the evening, which is so lovely and peaceful.  It is so refreshing that this fact is not in the least bit threatening to anyone.  Such a contrast to the US.  In reality, the USA is really quite a conservative country in many respects, particularly when it comes to freedom of or from religion.  The "suburb" called Observatory also has a great feel to it despite some undercurrents of opportunistic crime.  there is a very active community organization with a long history of activism.  I recently joined and attended a lively meeting with hundreds who came to protest the take-over of the council by developers.  it was pretty cool to see people so involved and eventually overturned that take-over or "capture".  There is a lot of development in this and many other communities, serious gentrification without attention to infrastructure and affordable housing, not unlike Seattle and many other places.    For the past several months I was able to attend a yoga class at the local community center a couple times a week with a really great teacher.  Unfortunately, it looks like he won't be continuing there any longer.  I also recently joined a gym that isn't too far away to be able to get some varied exercise including swimming when possible.

I walk everywhere within reason which has been my major form of exercise for the most part, but a few months ago my friend Leslie loaned me a second bike he has plans to donate somewhere, but that I can use it for my stay is wonderful.  I use it primarily on weekends when there is less traffic, and it is wonderful to be back on the bike again.  When I am walking it is often a challenge since many sidewalks are in disrepair or the there are cars parked partly on the sidewalks taking up most of the walkable area.  the residential side streets are narrow and most people must park on the street, so hence the sidewalks are sacrificed.  For these reasons, walking in the street is more commonplace than not.

When I am needing transport, I typically take a combi or van taxi on the Main Rd not far from my place - it travels north/south to many if not most places I need to go.  These are part of a network of relatively informal taxis operated by individuals.  they are more regulated now than in the past, but operate by having one just flag them down anywhere and then tell the driver where to drop you.  the most it can cost is 12 Rand which is about $1 USD.  it is very convenient since they run pretty regularly all day.  I don't take them at night and never get on unless there are others on the van.  And some of them are not in the best of shape or the drivers try to fit too many for the capacity.  I just have to pick and chose when to get on or get off.  I am typically the only white person on a van, although I do see others from time to time.  My other option is to use the lift service, Taxify.  It is a better alternative to Uber since they are cheaper and pay the drivers better.  It is convenient to use an app on my phone to order a ride no matter where I am.  and I don't need to use cash for payment, which is also convenient as I use a local bank account for automatic payment.

Speaking of my phone, it died permanently on 30 Dec and I thought it would be revived with a new battery, but not so.  Luckily as my phone began to act up, I ordered a refurbished one in the US for friends (thanks Charlotte, Larry, Libs and Clark) to bring when they come on 15 Jan.  So, I have been without a phone for two weeks which is pretty weird given what lifeline it is.  I didn't expect this predicament of course, and ordering from the US was a lot less expensive than buying one here, in addition to the fact that many sellers do not ship to South Africa.  so, it is an interesting exercise in creativity to sort out alternative modes of communication - mostly email with some Messenger thrown in.  I am also able to use Skype for some calls as well.

A critical issue here is the this city of 4 million, plus the 10 million tourists that come each year, is experiencing the biggest drought in years and is suffering a severe water shortage. The city has restricted water per person and per household to try to avoid Day Zero, which is the day the city runs out of water.  Right now it is anticipated for late April or early May.  I am not really sure what Plan B is at this point.  Everyone is expected to restrict number of showers per week; how often one flushes at home and in workplaces or public establishments like restaurants, etc; and washing dishes or doing laundry in the most conservative ways possible.  Since the on-demand hot water heater wastes too much to bring hot water to my cottage from the main house, now that it is warm to hot outside, I am using the outdoor shower which is connected to the main house and wastes less.  Another element that is good for conserving energy and is not new here (and most places in the world, I suspect) is that  laundry is hung to dry on a line and not via the use of dryers.

Photos include: my cottage; Sean my landlord; the front of his house; the view of Devils Peak (part of Table Mountain area) looking up the street in front of my house; Milo-the-dog; a combi/taxi; my loaner bike - my first real ride and parked outside my door with the giant jasmine bush; a neighbor girl dressed up as Queen Elizabeth for a party; my holiday tree from a local corner vendor and sitting on a Ndebele beaded mat.