Sunday, January 7, 2018

Life in my 'hood - Getting Back to Blog

Happy New Year!

Well, it has been quite since I have written here.  I have had a sort of blogger's block since a break-in to my place around Sept 12.  My laptop and many other things were taken and I have gradually recovered from this.  Old and new friends and perfect strangers were so kind, I felt very supported which helped a lot, of course. I bought a used laptop similar to the one I lost but initially mostly kept it at work. Now, I am gradually bringing it home so I can more easily write emails and ultimately blog again.   The main computer I have for work or personal use is my laptop which I was carrying back and forth every day, walking from home to UCT (Univ of Cape Town), about a mile walk.  it was risky for me to do this in the first place I suppose.  so, I will likely continue to bring it home on weekends for the most part.  Writing for the blog is more relaxing when I do it in the comfort of my home rather than in an office at the university.  I will see how this all works out over time.  Eventually, plain old procrastination got in my way and just feeling a little stymied about where to begin.  I've decided to begin with where I live.

My landlord installed an alarm system a couple of weeks after the break-in which has helped me a lot to feel more comfortable staying where I am.  In addition, I found it is harder to find a furnished place than I anticipated, so I am glad I can stay where I am.  The area where I am located is called Observatory, and is very conveniently located to UCT, grocery stores, coffee shops and restaurants, and friends that it makes it all the more desirable for me.

So, now, I am totally settled and committed to stay in my cottage which is located about 10 feet from the main house where my landlord lives.  Until recently, his two kids, ages 11 and 14 were living there with him, but they recently left to live with their mother in Germany for a year.  He has a 4-year-old son as well who is quite cute and visits his place regularly.  A big draw for me in my current place is his dog, Milo.  She and I have become great friends and are quite attached to each other.  I walk her daily and she often spends a lot of time with me in my place.  Just today she figured out she could jump up on the bed and I would do little to move her.  She reminds me of a seal so I call her a seal-pup.  I started having fantasies that Sean, my landlord, would allow me to make her a US citizen and bring her home with me, but I think that is unlikely.

I have established some steady routines in my little home and neighborhood. I started making what is known as Brown Seed Bread, sort of a staple here, and also rusk, another major staple. I have been complimented recently that I am turning into a South African with these achievements, apparently.  I think it would take quite a bit more.  anyway, it is a major accomplishment given that my stove is just a counter top thing that looks like a toaster oven with two hot plates on top.  there are no temperature settings on it, just 1, 2 and 3!  I bought an oven thermometer to help with this which so far I am mastering for the baking I have done.  there is a wonderful organic seed shop in walking distance from my place so that is my regular go-to store for flours and nuts, etc.  They were in business in 2001 when I was here previously, so it is nice to revisit some familiar places.

My neighborhood is pretty diverse with students and families and various ethnic groups living and or working nearby.  Within a block of where I live is a largely Muslim neighborhood, and Muslims are just a part of every day life everywhere I go throughout most of the city and surrounding areas.  At home I often hear the call to prayer wafting through the evening, which is so lovely and peaceful.  It is so refreshing that this fact is not in the least bit threatening to anyone.  Such a contrast to the US.  In reality, the USA is really quite a conservative country in many respects, particularly when it comes to freedom of or from religion.  The "suburb" called Observatory also has a great feel to it despite some undercurrents of opportunistic crime.  there is a very active community organization with a long history of activism.  I recently joined and attended a lively meeting with hundreds who came to protest the take-over of the council by developers.  it was pretty cool to see people so involved and eventually overturned that take-over or "capture".  There is a lot of development in this and many other communities, serious gentrification without attention to infrastructure and affordable housing, not unlike Seattle and many other places.    For the past several months I was able to attend a yoga class at the local community center a couple times a week with a really great teacher.  Unfortunately, it looks like he won't be continuing there any longer.  I also recently joined a gym that isn't too far away to be able to get some varied exercise including swimming when possible.

I walk everywhere within reason which has been my major form of exercise for the most part, but a few months ago my friend Leslie loaned me a second bike he has plans to donate somewhere, but that I can use it for my stay is wonderful.  I use it primarily on weekends when there is less traffic, and it is wonderful to be back on the bike again.  When I am walking it is often a challenge since many sidewalks are in disrepair or the there are cars parked partly on the sidewalks taking up most of the walkable area.  the residential side streets are narrow and most people must park on the street, so hence the sidewalks are sacrificed.  For these reasons, walking in the street is more commonplace than not.

When I am needing transport, I typically take a combi or van taxi on the Main Rd not far from my place - it travels north/south to many if not most places I need to go.  These are part of a network of relatively informal taxis operated by individuals.  they are more regulated now than in the past, but operate by having one just flag them down anywhere and then tell the driver where to drop you.  the most it can cost is 12 Rand which is about $1 USD.  it is very convenient since they run pretty regularly all day.  I don't take them at night and never get on unless there are others on the van.  And some of them are not in the best of shape or the drivers try to fit too many for the capacity.  I just have to pick and chose when to get on or get off.  I am typically the only white person on a van, although I do see others from time to time.  My other option is to use the lift service, Taxify.  It is a better alternative to Uber since they are cheaper and pay the drivers better.  It is convenient to use an app on my phone to order a ride no matter where I am.  and I don't need to use cash for payment, which is also convenient as I use a local bank account for automatic payment.

Speaking of my phone, it died permanently on 30 Dec and I thought it would be revived with a new battery, but not so.  Luckily as my phone began to act up, I ordered a refurbished one in the US for friends (thanks Charlotte, Larry, Libs and Clark) to bring when they come on 15 Jan.  So, I have been without a phone for two weeks which is pretty weird given what lifeline it is.  I didn't expect this predicament of course, and ordering from the US was a lot less expensive than buying one here, in addition to the fact that many sellers do not ship to South Africa.  so, it is an interesting exercise in creativity to sort out alternative modes of communication - mostly email with some Messenger thrown in.  I am also able to use Skype for some calls as well.

A critical issue here is the this city of 4 million, plus the 10 million tourists that come each year, is experiencing the biggest drought in years and is suffering a severe water shortage. The city has restricted water per person and per household to try to avoid Day Zero, which is the day the city runs out of water.  Right now it is anticipated for late April or early May.  I am not really sure what Plan B is at this point.  Everyone is expected to restrict number of showers per week; how often one flushes at home and in workplaces or public establishments like restaurants, etc; and washing dishes or doing laundry in the most conservative ways possible.  Since the on-demand hot water heater wastes too much to bring hot water to my cottage from the main house, now that it is warm to hot outside, I am using the outdoor shower which is connected to the main house and wastes less.  Another element that is good for conserving energy and is not new here (and most places in the world, I suspect) is that  laundry is hung to dry on a line and not via the use of dryers.

Photos include: my cottage; Sean my landlord; the front of his house; the view of Devils Peak (part of Table Mountain area) looking up the street in front of my house; Milo-the-dog; a combi/taxi; my loaner bike - my first real ride and parked outside my door with the giant jasmine bush; a neighbor girl dressed up as Queen Elizabeth for a party; my holiday tree from a local corner vendor and sitting on a Ndebele beaded mat.











 



     





4 comments:

  1. Thanks for the update. Glad to hear you’re feeling settled in.

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  2. Love the photos. Glad you have dog company and phone coming soon

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  3. enjoying your adventures vicariously! Jon

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  4. Great to read your blog post and to see the photos. Glad that things for the most part are going well. Hope you received the replacement phone! And I hope that work is going well.

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